Rasletind ski tour, Jotunheimen 🇳🇴
A few years ago, I stumbled upon a YouTube channel called "Mediocre Amateur." It featured a group of middle-aged American adventurers engaging in incredible outdoor activities, from trail running to ski touring. Their exploits fascinated me, and I began dreaming of embarking on similar adventures. However, my outdoor skills at the time were nowhere near the level required for such pursuits.
Determined to change that, I began preparing in 2023 by taking my first ski lessons. Over the following weeks, I spent more time on the slopes, gradually improving and inching closer to my dream of completing my first ski tour in the wild.
In May 2024, my wife and I planned a trip through Norway, Finland, and Sweden. Part of our itinerary included Jotunheimen, home to some of Norway's tallest peaks. It seemed like the perfect opportunity to attempt my first ski tour—on my birthday, no less. I contacted a local guide to plan the adventure, and we chose a modest peak, Rasletind, standing at 2,000 meters in Jotunheimen National Park. While Rasletind was considered tame for experienced skiers, it felt like a significant challenge for me. The excitement was tempered by nerves, as I couldn’t stop imagining all the potential injuries I might sustain. Ever since a bike accident left me with a broken arm, I’ve developed a paranoia about getting hurt, which didn’t help my state of mind.
As the ski tour approached, I was struck by a bad case of the flu. Even up until the day of the tour, I wasn’t sure if I would be able to go. The day before, we arrived in the ski town of Beitostølen, where we planned to stay for three days. The town was quiet, as the ski slopes had just closed for the season. Despite this, the weather was spectacular: a bluebird day with the sun shining down on the snow-covered town. It was surreal to see meters of snow still blanketing the area in May.
With no objectives that first day, we decided to drive to the trailhead to get a feel for the area. The trailhead was located on one of Norway’s scenic routes, Valdresflye, a small country road cutting across a snow-covered plateau. The landscape was dotted with villages accessible only by snowmobiles or skis. Everyone around seemed to be skiing or driving with skis strapped to their cars. It was fascinating to see skis used as a normal mode of transportation in this part of the world. The breathtaking scenery excited and unnerved me in equal measure as I thought about the challenge ahead.
On the morning of the tour, I packed my bags, loaded the car, and headed to the trailhead by 7:30 AM. The weather was perfect—perhaps too perfect. Temperatures of 4°C and sunshine meant the snow would likely become wet and slushy by the afternoon, complicating our descent. After parking alongside the road, gearing up, and meeting a group of Swedes also heading to Rasletind, we set off.
This was my first time skinning on skis, and to my surprise, it felt almost natural. With my toes clipped to the skis and heels free, I dragged one foot after the other, conserving energy as I moved. Perhaps all those hours of watching ski touring videos had paid off. Despite my lingering flu, I felt strong, even overtaking a few people on the way up, which boosted my confidence. However, I couldn’t stop myself from scanning the route for challenging sections I’d need to navigate on the way down.
The first three kilometers were relatively flat, but the terrain became steeper as we climbed. It was time for my first kick turns, and as the mountain grew steeper, so did my heart rate. Exhaustion from the climbing and repeated kick turns began to set in. Near the top, the snow thinned, and rocks began to protrude. We decided to remove our skis and hike the final stretch to the summit.
Reaching the top was a moment of triumph. After a celebratory snack and a quick sip of water, I took in the views. To one side lay an endless expanse of snow, stretching back toward the trailhead and our parked car. On the other side, the rocky peaks of the Jotunheimen mountain range pierced the sky. Feeling confident, as none of the sections on the way up had seemed overly intimidating, we prepared for the descent.
We removed the skins from our skis and began the journey down. Barely 100 meters in, I hit a patch of porous snow, causing my ski to get stuck and sending me tumbling. My guide’s immediate question was, “Is your knee okay?” Fortunately, it was, despite my leg twisting awkwardly and my skis failing to pop off as they should have. I couldn’t help but think of my wife and our one-year-old son waiting back at the Airbnb. An injury would have ruined not just the ski tour but our entire two-week trip across Norway, Sweden, and Finland.
Shaken but unharmed, I got up and continued. A mellow section of the slope allowed me to link turns and enjoy the ride, but the steep sections ahead and worsening snow conditions—what skiers call “rotten snow”—proved challenging for a beginner like me. By the time we reached the flatter lower slopes, I was relieved. We straight-lined the final stretch back to the parking lot.
Finishing my first ski tour in one piece felt like a significant achievement. Although I realized I’m not yet ready for off-piste skiing, the experience motivated me to improve my skills and try again in the future. Ski touring offers a unique combination of physical challenge, solitude, and the reward of earning your turns. It’s a skill that allows you to escape the crowds and explore remote mountain landscapes in winter, which is something truly special. I can’t wait to do more of it.
